Just two or three kilometres outside of Puerto Viejo lies Playa Cocles, the beach that became my backyard for most of 2020 while the coronavirus raged in the world around us. I stayed in a hostel on the beach, walked anywhere from two to six dogs every morning, I drew... and I body-surfed. There were some lulls in the waves and I suffered. There was a blocked ear and a lost month because of it when I went too hard. But body-surfing was my exercise, my release, my fun... maybe my saviour.
Sometimes I was in for just ten minutes. Other days, I spent three or four hours. Some days I hurried for exercise, some days I counted rides (126 was my record), some days I relaxed and some days I just went out and back endlessly for pure pleasure. And then there were the nights. The week leading into full moon was always my favourite, the Caribbean so well-lit after sundown that there was no barrier to a decent sesh. And no need for board shorts. I’ll never forget this time of my life or this beautiful beach that so climbed into my imagination.